From the bag and lining fabric, cut one each 15” X 22”.
Cut 1 – 3 ½” X 40” for the bag strap
Cut 2 – 6 ½” circles from two different fabrics for the pocket, using the OLFA Circle Cutter.
Use ¼” seam allowances through out unless directed otherwise.
With right sides together, fold the bag and lining pieces in half so they measure 15” X 11”. Stitch and then press the seam open on each piece. Center the seam in the middle of each piece.
With raw edges even, right sides together, stitch one end to from the bottom of the bag. Leave the other end open. Press the seam open. Lightly press it flat on the sides of the bag.
To make a box bottom, center a side fold on top of the seam at the bag bottom forming a triangle.
With the bag side crease centered over the bottom seam, measure down from the point 2” and mark with a pin.
Fold over the triangle up to the mark, crease and press so that it looks like a triangle.
Open the triangle back up and draw a line on the crease. Stitch on the line (base of the triangle).
Repeat for the other side. Do this on both the bag and the lining.
Turn the outside of the bag with the right side out. Leave the lining wrong side out.
With wrong sides together, press the open end of each bag component under 1”. Set aside.
To make the circle pocket, with right sides together, put the 6 ½” circles together and stitch around the entire edge. Don’t leave an opening.
Decide which side of the pocket will be the main pocket fabric and which will form the cuff. On the fabric that is the main piece, make a 1” horizontal slit, ¾” away from the edge. Turn right side out through the slit. Press the pocket carefully, pulling out the seam edges.
Turn the cuff to the right side, making it 1 ¾” deep from the curve to the fold. Press.
Cut a 12” piece of rick rack. Stitch it to the curved edge of the pocket, leaving 1” of rick rack on either end of the top of the pocket.
Mark the center of the bag front and the center of the pocket. Pin the pocket 4” down from the top, folded edge of the bag front, matching the center markings.
Top stitch close to the pocket edge, tucking the excess rick rack inside the pocket seam. Stitch ¼” along the top of each corner of the pocket to secure. (If it’s easier, you could do this step while the bag front is still flat. If you choose to do this step then, place the pocket 5” down from the top raw edge, centering the pocket on the center line of the bag.)
Place the lining inside the bag, wrong sides together, matching the back seam and the top edges.
Top stitch ¼” from the top edge of the bag, and again, 1” from the top of the bag.
To make the strap, fold the 40” strip in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the length of the strap, leaving 3” open in the middle of the length for turning. Stitch the two short ends. Turn right side out through the opening and press carefully.
Top stitch a scant ¼” from all the edges of the strap, sewing the opening closed as you do so.
Tie a knot in either end of the strap.
The strap is attached so one end is sewn on the front of the bag and the other on the back of the bag. You may want to change to a zipper foot for this part.
Measure and mark 3” toward the left, from the center of both the front and back of the bag.
Center the strap on this mark, with the knot ½” below the bottom row of stitching at the top of the bag.
Stitch the strap to the bag, ¼” from the edge of the bag, matching it up with the top stitching. Sew another row of stitching ¼” below that. Be sure to back stitch. Attach both the front and back straps ends this way.
Snug up the knots after the last row of stitches.
Press out any crease marks.
The Snack Sack is ready for treats for the beach or to pack lunch for work!
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